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FIV Positive Cats
So you’ve tested a cat and he/she is FIV positive. There is probably a 50/50 chance that your vet has recommended that you put the cat to sleep. If you are reading this, it is likely that something inside of you has said “this isn’t right.”
I am not a vet and this is not a web page dedicated to explaining the disease to people. For that, you need to see the Cornell University website, and I’ll provide those links below. But more importantly, you need to talk with and people who have been through this. I have done that. I am no expert, BUT I currently have FIV positive cats in the same household as disease-free cats. This is a very complicated issue and each situation will be different, but our point is that these cats should not be put to sleep unless they are in the last stages of the disease and suffering (and we are not talking about the sniffles here).
FIV is often explained as the feline version of HIV. Like HIV, FIV is spread mainly through bodily fluids, specifically, blood contact. It is generally spread through bite wounds, which is why most FIV positive cats we have taken in have been unaltered males. It may be passed through sexual intercourse, but this is less likely. It also may be passed from mother to kittens. It is not passed through sharing food bowls or litter boxes.
The first thing you need to know (beyond the fact that you cannot catch this disease as a human) is that FIV and feline leukemia positive cats need to be tested at least twice because false positive readings can occur. The Western Blot test is currently thought to be the definitive test. It is more expensive, so we only use it when we test the second time. There should be a 3 month period between each test.
The second thing we want you to know is that FIV cats can live long healthy lives, just as HIV positive people can. The truth is, we have not yet lost any of our FIV cats to FIV-related illnesses. Many FIV cats will live into old age and eventually pass away from something unrelated, like kidney failure.
Depending on the situation, the FIV positive cat may not need to be separated. For instance, if you have 3 cats living harmoniously together and you find that one has FIV, as long as the 3 cats don’t fight, you don’t need to stress the FIV cat out by moving him.
If you do need to remove him because of fighting, he can still live in the same household, in another room, another part of the house, and not pass the disease onto other cats within the household.
by Victoria M. King
Cornell University info on FIV / Article by Julie Levy, DVM, PhD / CHAT’s`info on FIV
Posted in Cat Education, Education
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Feline Leukemia Positive Cats
If you’ve had a cat test positive for feline leukemia, there is probably a 50/50 chance that your vet has recommended that you put the cat to sleep. If you are reading this, it is likely that something inside of you has said “this isn’t right.”
I am not a vet and this is not a web page dedicated to explaining the disease to people. For that, you need to see the Cornell University website, and I will provide those links below. But more importantly, you need to talk with people who have been through this. I have done that. I am no expert, BUT we have taken in feline leukemia positive cats, and in the same household as disease-free cats. This is a very complicated issue and each situation will be different, but our point is that these cats may have tested positive falsely, and should, at the very least, have a second test at least three months apart.
Feline leukemia is not like human leukemia. It is not cancer, for one thing. It was probably named this because a cat who has feline leukemia has a compromised immune system. Currently the medical establishment has no good answers regarding feline leukemia (which we often refer to as “feleuk”). They can’t decide how effective the vaccine is (which is one of the many reasons all cats should be indoor only). They can’t decide how it spreads. Cornell University will tell you that it is spread through prolonged intimate contact such as bathing (while still telling you not to share litter boxes and food bowls with healthy cats and feline positive ones), while there has been case after case of feline leukemia positive cats living among healthy cats for years without passing the disease.
The first thing you need to know (beyond the fact that you cannot catch this disease as a human) is that, even more than with FIV, feline leukemia positive cats need to be tested at least twice because false positive readings can occur (and we have had false positives here). There should be a 3 month period between each test.
The second thing we want you to know is that feline leukemia positive cats can live healthy lives – usually another two to four years after diagnosis.
Feline leukemia positive cats can live in the same household, but should live in separate areas of the house. If one of your cats turns up positive, you should probably allow him to live in a separate part of the house while you test the other cats in the household and wait the 3-4 month period to retest the positive cat.
Because the evidence is inconclusive as far as how the disease is passed, I would take precautions such as using separate litter boxes, food and water bowls and living space. However, it is not an airborne disease and so if one of your cats has feline leukemia, he does not need to be removed from the household, but just be kept separate from your other cats.
by Victoria M. King
Cornell University on Feline Leukemia / In-Depth Explanation of the Disease & its Stages
Posted in Cat Education, Education
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Is Your Cat or Dog “Scooting” on Your Rug?
Eugene is an older gentleman we rescued from death row at another sanctuary. His family claimed they couldn’t take him with them when they moved, so they took him to the local shelter.
After having Eugene in my home for a few days, I noticed him scoot his rear end across my carpet after using the litter box. I then realized my carpet needed a shampooing and that Eugene needed to see the vet. As sometimes happens, especially with older cats, his anal glands had become clogged and were causing him discomfort. The vet expressed the glands and this solved Eugene’s and my problem. I now suspect his scooting behavior may have played into the decision for his family to give him up after having had him 7 years.
Dogs and cats will scoot on carpets and rugs for two reasons: clogged anal glands and worms. Either way, they need to see a vet, and both problems are easily solved.
Victoria King
Posted in Cat Education, Dog Education, Education
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What to Tell Folks about Adopting Animals
Why do people return animals to shelters? (Don’t you want to know how they could even consider it?) Shelter workers have heard all the popular excuses: allergies; new baby; moving; urinates in the house; barks; hard to handle; won’t obey; tail knocked over a vase; dog or cat hair in the house…and on and on.
Please encourage folks you know to: a) adopt from a rescue (don’t patronize breeders) and b) think it through BEFORE taking an animal home. The care of a dog or cat is a 10-18 year commitment that should be taken seriously. The animals we bring into our homes become dependent on us not only for food and shelter, but for their emotional well-being. We become their family. It’s simply cruel to frivolously “throw away” a thinking, feeling, sensitive being because he or she became inconvenient.
Pre-planning is the key. People need to think about what kind of animal will fit into their lifestyle. Do they have the time to devote to the animal? A lonely, bored dog in someone’s backyard is not a happy dog. Consider factors like size (where do they live…apartment, house, farm?), activity requirements, and temperament. If purebreds are their thing, encourage breed rescues. Shelters are also a good source for purebred dogs and cats.
And, finally, warn about impulsive decisions that they may regret (and the animal will pay for). Attempting to replace one animal with another is not a sound idea. It rarely works out that way.
Adopting/rescuing an animal is a wonderful thing to do…it just takes some thought. Ask a potential adopter this question, “Does the thought of dog/cat hair on your kitchen table make you cringe?” If the answer is “yes,” suggest a stuffed teddy bear.
Stan Petrey
Posted in Cat Education, Dog Education, Education
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Does your Dog Need a Friend?
Is yours a one dog home? In most cases it’s a great idea for your single dog to have a dog buddy. In some homes a lone dog may have imprinted so heavily on humans that problems could arise, but even those can usually be worked out.
If, like a number of people, you worry that your dog isn’t as happy as he could be, the buddy system could be just what the doctor ordered. A new buddy offers great benefits for your dog (and those you rescue!). Lonely, bored dogs simply don’t do very well and frequently get into trouble for undesirable behavior like digging, chewing, or continuous barking.
There are benefits for you, too. Happy dogs at play will make you smile, and it’s the first step in establishing the natural order of the pack. Many people miss out on this wonderful aspect of living with and around dogs…the joy of the pack. The fascinating world of pack behavior…the hierarchy, specific role playing, communication techniques, and the bonds that develop between pack members…are nothing but fun to watch.
The pack offers dogs a chance to emulate their wolf ancestors. Alpha males and females rise to the top of this social equation while other fall in line. Dogs will honor the system, although some squabbles may erupt as the order is being established.
Adopt only as many dogs as you can care for. Start with a buddy for your buddy and as time and money allow, consider establishing your own little pack with rescued dogs. Just remember, you’ll be part of the pack, too.
Stan Petrey
Posted in Dog Education
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Welcome to the Pack
So, you’re ready for the joy of living with your own pack. And why not? It’s the best way to go with dogs. But maybe you’ve had a single dog in your home for a number of years and worry about introducing another one (or two) into the mix. Although it’s possible (in cases where a dog has imprinted so heavily upon his human family) to experience a problem or two, it’s usually easy to build up the pack. So step right up. Here’s how.
“Ginger, this is Amy. Amy, this is Ginger.” When introducing a new dog into your family, a few common sense guidelines can prevent trouble and open the door to unlimited tail-wagging. First, get some extra human hands to help. Next, be sure that all dogs are on leashes and under control. Perhaps most importantly, make the initial introduction on neutral territory to eliminate turf issues.
Let the dogs get acquainted at their own pace and allow for natural behavior to take place. Dogs are generally very good at working things out themselves if we don’t interfere too much. You must be there, though, to deal with any sign of serious trouble. If trouble does develop, remain calm. Stay in charge and don’t panic. If dogs sense a loss of control, the situation could go downhill from there.
Offer praise and treats to all the dogs for cooperating and let them know they are loved. That’s especially important for the dog or dogs who already live with you. These guys don’t need to feel that they are somehow losing status. Instead, they should be helped to understand that they’re gaining a special new friend.
Feed the new dog in a place where he won’t feel threatened and can enjoy his meal without one eye on the other dogs. Place the food bowls in the same place for each feeding and feed in the same order, usually older (or alpha) dogs on down. Don’t forget to elevate food dishes for larger dogs.
Gradually increase the length of your get-acquainted sessions and before long (maybe the same day) you could have a happy pack.
Posted in Dog Education
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